Whole Garam Masala Smoked Haddock Kedgeree, taking home an age old recipe
Kedgeree - A dish I vaguely heard about while growing up in Pakistan, a British dish created and inspired from their time in India, I was briefly told. A rice main course made with fish and enlivened by the use of the generic curry powder did not appeal to my rather refined spiced taste buds. But after moving to the UK, I became rather intrigued by the love for this dish in this country. Using a confused spice mix loosely based of the flavours of my homeland, a clear inspiration of cooking basmati as you would in a Pullao, by absorption and infusing flavour into rice, is exactly what Kedgeree is - a borrowed concept, brought to live with a blend of spices and brought to life with the addition of the classic comfort British fish, Smoked haddock - a delciate, sweet fish, and only ever best used undyed.Many stories surround the invention of this dish, and I have learnt much of it's heritage from Graeme of A Scots Larder in his recipe post of Kedgeree. But what is evident to me is that this is a recipe inspired from one I grew up eating in Pakistan called Khitchri, when I was poorly. I don't know where the egg came from, I vaguely understand why the smoked fish is included but I do appreciate the spice, onions and rice combined to create comfort that can only take you to your mother's arms when you are sick. That is my memory of Kedergee's inspiration - I remember the aromas of when Khitchri was made - of warmth, of onions cooked with ghee, cumin and garlic bringing the 'sick food' alive with the classic combination of mung daal and basmati. Cooking Kedgeree, brought me to that place again, only this time with slightly unfamilar flavours, but equally as enticing and homey.I have borrowed Graeme's recipe with his permission and adapted it with my own spice blend and a few tips - using a selection of fish friendly whole garam masalas, creating a warmer, more fragrant Kedergree than what you may be used to. I like to think of as taking a dish home to the land it was inspired from, to my homeland - creating more a pullao rice, with a touch of an era gone by; with history combined with heritage and produce of two nations that will forever be intertwined. It maybe the go to trendy recipe at the moment, but the truth is, we've been eating it's predecessor for generations! It is ultimately a comfort food, nurturing when made by a loved one, especially when you need a safe refuge to curl up into.
Ingredients (Serves 2) and takes 25 minutes from preparation to completion
- 1 Fillet undyed smoked haddock (preferably peat smoked)
- 350ml Cold water
- 1 Onion (finely chopped)
- 1 knob Butter
- 150g Basmati rice
- 2.5 teaspoons Masala
- 2 Eggs
- 1 teaspoon Ground Kashmiri chilli
- 1/2 teaspoon Turmeric powder
- coriander leaves to garnish
My Whole Masala blend:
- 2 teaspoons Cumin seeds
- 2 teaspoons Coriander seeds
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tsp whole peppercorns
- 1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
Traditionally hard boiled eggs are added but Graeme prefers to see the yolk of the poached egg run into the smoky goodness below.
Directions
1. In a heavy based pan poach the haddock in the cold water then remove and set aside. Keep the water in a bowl or jug.2. Add the butter to the same pan and the whole garam masalas to the pan. Next add the onion and cook until soft.3. Add the rice, turmeric and ground Kashmiri chilli powder and stir once. Add half the water used to poach the fish and then put the lid on and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes.4. While you are waiting for the rice to cook, poach the eggs5. Keep checking on the rice until cooked, you may need to add a little more of the water.6. . Add back the haddock and stir through, serve with the poached eggs on top and a few coriander leaves