Lahore - A city with history at it's feet & food in its heart and soul

In my mind history, art, architecture, fashion, music and food all have something in common, they are all a result of excellence fuelled by passion. Be it a passion for creativity, ideas or science. The limits of such are endless and when I think of the one thing that always inspires me to write about Pakistani food, it's always through  Pakistani art, Mughal architecture, the beautiful fabrics and fashions that my country has to offer, when I hear the eclectic music and the talent of performers, experience the insightful art created - I think of how little the world knows about my country  - except for what they learn from the media. We thrive in a world obsessed with negative portrayal of the underdog. What people don't stop to think is that there is rich heritage, ancient civilisations, ethnically diverse people and talent that is earning to be noticed and be given due credit. I don't deny the apparent issues prevaliant in Pakistan but I choose not to focus on what I can not control, rather highlight the positivity that I know and which needs to be  noticed by the world. I know food, so I write about it, I wrap it in the comfort of the culture it supports and try to do my little to show the world that you can not take away the one thing that Pakistan thrives on, it's food, traditions and history.Hailing from Karachi, the largest port city of Pakistan, I was always very committed to the city growing up, fiercely defensive about Karachi, as an ever present friendly warfare always remains  between the cities of Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad. As for food, I always thought Karachi had the most of offer, home to many ethnically diverse communities, ranging from local Sindhis, Memons, immigrant population such as people from Hyderabad, Dehli, Bhopal and other parts of of NorthWest India, bringing with them  their cuisines during parititon in 1947 and which later fused with local food, creating a definitive Karachi flavour. When I was young and I used visit my cousins in Lahore, all I could think was maybe a bit of shopping and running around in the parks - food was the last thing on my mind. My return to this beautiful city on my trip home this time was focused on food - I came on a mission, albiet a short one on which I knew I could but touch the surface of what Lahore had to offer. But I needed to to this. See Lahore with fresh eyes and for what it was known for, it's food and history combined.My eyes opened to a feast to the senses as I was whisked away from the airport to the city - As I  moved from a walk through the stunningly awe-inpring Lahore Fort and Badshahi mosque, through the solid original authoritative looking the Roshnai Gate's tiny door within it's lofty structure, which takes you into the Walled City - As you enter, you step back into time, like a scene from Midnight in Paris, you were transported into a time forgotten and remembered in the pages of history books. Once the home of the nobles of the Mughal dynasty, later then turned to the red light district of Lahore by the British- this is deep varied history of  the Walled City. However as you enter this historical space now, you are hit by the aromas of smoky barbecues, freshly made bread, simmering rich spicy curries and freshly made Kat-a-Kat, a steamed and fried stir fry....there is a sense of history in the well preserved buildings, they speak of a time of richness, a time of sorrow; a time of much change from it's heights of royal influence and protection to times of taboo of the dancing girls of Lahore.... But now it's brought a face of respectability and access to all, through a celebration of the sprit and passion of all Lahori's - Food. The key attraction in the Food Street in the Walled City is the well known restaruant Cucoo's Den, owned by the controversial and daring artist Iqbal Hussain, who has supported the retired dancing girl's through his charity, by selling his art in his restaurant - his art is both moving and dark and captures the pain, sadness of lost lives...The restaurant itself has been around for 22 years and has contributed in lifting the image of the area and led to it's development into a Food Street as it is today.The 9th inch steep steps that lead up 5 flights of stairs to the roof are worth every treacherous step as the views are truly spectacular. Boasting iconic and inspiring views of the Badshahi mosque, the Lahore Fort and the Minar-e-Pakistan far beyond, in the night lit sky, Lahore is visually stunning. I found myself intoxicated by the culmination of the sounds of the Kat-a-kat in the distance, traffic from a far, views of exquisite Mughal architecture, enveloped in the sweet smoky aroma of barbecue combined with the wafts of agarbatti (incense) - In the background I could hear the faint beating of the tabla and the chattering of people taking in the scene, as I was. I watched in amazement as baskets were lowered down to the kitchen quickly to pull up food to the rooftop from the ground floor kitchen, used in the old days to bring up shopping, laundry and the likes. I was there early, I only started the night at 730pm with gulab jamans, firni and kulfi - Lahore comes alive post 9pm, and an eating extravaganza which lasts until alteast 2 am...From the new refurbished Food Street I moved on the old but real Food Street behind the haveli's - so much so is this in blatant contrast, dusty, crowed, with dardevil motorbikes racing through, the smells of exhaust fumes and tantalising aromas of grilled meats, daal tiki's, chicken and paiy (goat's trotter curry) wafting through the air - this is the "real" Lahore. I was greeted with such hospitality to Phaja Siri Paiy restaurant, I was served warming spicy goat's trotter's curry with fresh naans, a Pakistani delicacy that is cooked for upto 17 hours to achieve a rich, deeply spicy, rather sticky broth topped with garam masala and nothing beats soft warm naans soaked in the sauce and eaten warm...Next I walked though an array of cheap street stalls of tawa chicken, keema ki tiki, chicken tikkas and khikar kay channay (chickpeas eaten cold made without any oil) - through all the hustle and bustle of a noisy busy narrow street flanked with every kind of Pakistani street food, I found myself eventually into one of the many small old established musical instrument stores which support Lahore's red light district dancing girl's musicians - beautiful sitars, tables, pianos, violins, guitars - what an unexpected area to find these, here I was purchasing a violin for my daughter within 10 minutes, from a man whose from 3 generation's of ustads (teacher's of music and dance).My food night had only just begun, now 9pm I was driven through Mall road, which is back to back with beautiful colleges and universities, National College of Arts, Punjab University, Aichinson, Government College - Lahore is a seat of learning and well established educational institutions - whisked passed the edges of Anarkali bazaar I found myself around the Gaddafi Stadium which is surrounded by an array of food places, each proudly displaying not just all that Lahore has to offer, but the whole of Pakistan. This is a real celebration of every provincial cuisine of the country. Each and every eatry is heaving with people, the air is filled with aromatic smoke that can only be described as the essence of Pakistani food. I eat at Dera, (which means an important destination, within a village)- this is a slightly commercial place but it still keeps to the authencity of the cuisine. With traditional outdoor seating of charpai's (jute woven beds) and low jute chairs, the manager knows of my arrival and treats us to a the best of Lahori and Pakistani cuisine - the ever famous Sarson ka Saag, Makai ki roti, Sajji, Angori Chicken, Mutton chops, Malai tikkas and soft seasme seed naans. With live table music and the chattering of happy Lahoris, whose greatest pleasure is eating and enjoying each other's company - you can see a real passion for food and it's enjoyment. I am treated by getting a personal tour of the open air kitchen chat about the secrets of restaurant cooking with the head chef and take lots of pictures - finally we are told our meal is complimentary - the hospitability is surreal, I always marvel at it when I come home to Pakistan, I did always take it for granted when I lived here. And it is now 11pm - and I know the night is still young....By now I am stuffed, and my cousin's friend joins us - he is the epitome of Lahori-ness. You name what you think is the best place for a dish and he will tell you that you have it all wrong and take you straight to the one place you'd never knew existed. This man is a  Lahori, flesh and blood a man of the land. He lives and breathes food. He takes us to the most obscure and hidden away places for what seemed like a race through Lahore - and I was told I had only scratched the surface. Taken away to Qwalmandi, a real back of beyond area with make shift road-side restaurants for the everyday man - I was taken to a place that serves a Kashmiri-style stew made of beef, called Hareesa - it's slow cooked  with wheat and lentil, finished with ghee, spinach, small beef kebabs and eaten with what to me were the best naans I have ever had - made in a wood fire tandoor - the owner who is the son of the founder of the restaurants, a humble happy man, himself makes the finished dish alone. With pride he explains how Hareesa included 30 different masalas and takes up to 6 hours of slow cooking.It is now 1am, I am now struggling to keep my eyes open let alone force another morsel of food down my throat. Yet I am strangely exhilarated by this food adventure and a face of Lahore that I had never seen before,  in the company of proud Lahori's - something kept me going. Our last visit for the night was at a place called PC Barbecue - yet again a road-side unassuming place, with plastic garden furniture placed on the pavements, all choc-a-block with customers. Here the owner greets us knowing our friend, treats us to the most increible Malai Fish tikkas I have ever eaten - I force fed these as I would never forgive myself from expeirencing the cotton soft flesh, the simple elegant flavour and surprinigly very mild spice. With my last bite, I knew it was time to call it a night - falling deep into a food coma on the way back to my cousin's home, I think I was ready for my bed....The next day I woke up feeling even more full than the night before but determined to do a few more food experiences before spending quality time with family I did a whilwind visit to Mohammadi Nihari, boasting the best nihari in Lahore, a quick taste of a Lahore speciality of Murgh Choolay at Shahi Murgh Choolay and finally ending with a Lahore version of Falooda, a arrowroot noodle topped with sugar syrup and sweet cooked thickened milk called Khoya, It was now evident I had out done my capacity for consumption. The night ended with a takeaway of authentic Lahori Tawa fish and Lahori fish, which fried in a chick pea batter, much like an English fish and chips but of the spice and chickpea flavour! And finally, I couldnt leave Lahore with some crunchy hot Jalebi's ...What did I take with me from Lahore on this trip? I realise that I have only just begun my exploration of this fantastically exciting culinary city, I knew it left me wanting more, the need to return in a hurry, to spend much more time, speak to many more people, learn a lot more and I feel that even then the secrets of the city of such beauty and flavour would not remain explored in it's entirety in my lifetime - and that excites and challanges me - to do my best to return before long and leave no stone unturned. The question is, would I still go back to my childhood city wars between Lahore and Karachi, might is be possible that I may see Lahore with such new sights and be swayed to change my opinion of the best city in Pakistan? This remains to be seen, Lahore has architectural beauty and endless food inspiration but Karachi has my beloved sea shore and the aroma of the dusty desert earth I know so well. May I say that I now take no sides, I just know Pakistan is a country waiting to be discovered, explored and experienced, even by a Paksitani, born and raised as myself. my eyes are now open, my senses tantilzed and my body and mind ready for the adventure.