Fig, Honey and Pistachio Kulfi

The school bell would ring - its was 1.15pm, the sun had been shouting on the top of the tin and concrete school roof for what seemed like an eternity of a day. If you were lucky enough to sit under the lonesome ceiling fan you'd not at least be sweaty. But alas if you were not, all you could wish for was something to  save you from your brain exploding in the unbearable heat, refuge was suddenly evident as you heard  the sound of the Kulfi walla - his shrill voice, his half broken bell and aching wheels of his dilapidated reclaimed wood cart - with old beaten steel tubs filled with sliver icy moulds which revealed the cold misty milky pops on sticks that you could taste before you ate them -  the heat, the anticipation. Hurriedly I would slip a rupee in this wrinkled mans even more wrinkly hands - breathe in it's sweet essence and eat in about 30 seconds before my mother would come to pick me up - this was a forbidden delight you see, never were we allowed to enjoy these without such a deep sense of guilt, making the forbidden fruit even sweeter - always told that it being made with unboiled buffalos' milk and unboiled tap water - it was poison on a stick. But when you're young you think you're invincible. Thankfully I never got sick because of my little secret cold reprieve.Being in England now means we have a lot of less than perfect weather - do I miss the heat? I think if you read my posts you'll know that my lack of appreciation for constant sunshine in Pakistan is now evident from my yearning it every day. There are so many cooling dishes in Pakistan, made to help deal with the heat - obviously Kulfi is one of them, but this is one sweet cooling treat that carries over to any weather - The stuff you eat in restaurants and peoples homes is a far cry from the simple Kulfi-walla's milky watery connotation - mostly it is made rich with pistachio, rose, cardamom, fruit - Living in the UK I have had such exposure to indigenous fruits such as rhubarb and an array of berries - I have made many versions, but this one is with a fruit that I grew up picking from my garden, waiting it for to ripen before pinching it open to reveal a humble looking yet decadently flavoured treasure. To me figs remind me of warm summer evenings and the cool Karachi sea breeze laced with the abundant essence of fruits and flowers from my garden in Pakistan. Figs just finished season here and using the last of the ones available I used them to create Kulfi to bring back memories of childhood secret escapes and warm summer heat - just as winter approaches London. Serves: makes about 12 Kulfis - in Kulfi moulds (or any other ice lolly moulds, failing which make parchment paper cones and use as moulds with a ice cream stick)Prep and cooking time: 40 minutes cooking and 8 hours to overnight freezing1 litre whole milk1 can sweet condensed milk50 g dried whole milk powder300 g ricotta1 tbsp Acacia honey1 tbsp cornflour, made into a thin paste with water50 g chopped pistachios60 g soft figs, chopped. (either fresh or preserved)1 tsp vanilla extract1 pinch saffron1 tsp ground cardamom1. Heat a saucepan over medium heat and boil the litre of whole milk until it reduces a bit (15-20) minutes.  Add the can of condensed milk, stir for a while until dissolved.2. Now add the ricotta, powdered milk , honey and stir continuously until dissolved. Finally add the cornflour paste and stir until the milk mixture is thick. Add saffron, vanilla, figs and pistachios and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring continuously.3. Take off heat and cook for about 10 minutes. Pour into Kulfi moulds or parchment paper cones with a stick and allow to rest for 10 minutes - pop into a freezer for 7-8 hours or overnight.4. To serve, if using Kulfi moulds, leave outside for a few minutes then warm with hands and allow Kulfi to slip out, sprinkle with a chopped pistachio and serve immediately.